The scissors-over-comb haircutting technique, which has been made popular and is often used by barbers, is an essential technique necessary for use in many different haircuts for both men and women. The scissors-over-comb haircutting technique allows the hairstylist to cut close to the head and follow the hairline for a soft look. The technique is used as an alternative to the freshly-shaven look that comes with using clippers to achieve a close cut.
In order to execute the scissors-over-comb haircutting technique, the hair should be freshly washed and damp. Using scissors, the top half of the head should be cut to remove the bulk of the hair. Once completed, the stylist moves to the lower half of the head, following the guidelines below.
- Beginning at the hairline, lift a section of the hair with a comb, held in your left hand.
- Any hair that sticks past the comb should be cut with the scissors, which should be in your right hand. The lower blade of the scissors, also known as the stationary blade, must be parallel to the comb.
- Cut off the hair that sticks past the comb with your scissors (in your cutting hand). The lower blade (the stationary blade) must be parallel to your comb.
- The blade of the scissors should be moving as you cut one comb’s worth of hair. Stopping in the middle of the cut will cause nicks.
- Be sure to open and close the blades completely, so that the majority of the cutting is done with the center part of the scissor blades rather than the tips of the scissor blades, to avoid choppy and uneven cuts.
- Most of the cutting work should be done with the upper blade, or thumb blade, rather than the finger (lower) blade. The finger blade should remain still, which is why it is often referred to as the stationary blade of the scissors.
- The hair should be cut close to the comb, but not touch the comb. This will avoid damage to the comb and scissors.
- Once the first section has been cut, lift some of the cut hair with the next section, but be sure to avoid cutting any of the hair from the previous cut.
- Always keep the comb at a consistent distance and angle from the scalp to achieve a smooth and even cut.
- Next, work your way through the bottom half of the haircut lifting the hair in both vertical and diagonal sections.
- When executing this technique, stand to the side rather than in front of the person whose hair you are cutting. This will allow you to angle the comb more easily and better see the amount of hair that you are cutting.
- For this technique, it is advised that you use scissors with a long blade. Shorter blades will cause an uneven cut.
The scissors-over-comb haircutting technique takes a lot of practice to master. Once mastered, however, it will make it easy to blend and cut shorter hairstyles, giving them a soft, clean, and even look.
